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Chapter 27 | Voyages 2 -
Chapter 28
Original translation from
the French by Charles Pomeroy Otis, Ph.D. Republished by
the Prince Society, Boston: 1878.
MEMOIR OF SAMUEL DE
CHAMPLAIN
Volume II
1604-1610
CHAPTER XII.
DEPARTURE FROM PORT ROYAL TO RETURN TO FRANCE. MEETING
RALLEAU AT CAPE SABLE, WHICH CAUSED US TO TURN BACK.
On the 17th of the month, in
accordance with the resolution we had formed, we set out
from the mouth of Port Royal with two barques, one of
eighteen tons, the other of seven or eight, with the
view of pursuing the voyage to Cape Breton or Canseau.
We anchored in the strait of Long Island,[191] where
during the night our cable broke, and we came near being
lost, owing to the violent tides which strike upon
several rocky points in and about this place. But,
through the diligent exertions of all, we were saved,
and escaped once more.
On the 21st of the month there was a violent wind, which
broke the irons of our rudder between Long Island and
Cape Fourchu, and reduced us to such extremities that we
were at a loss what to do. For the fury of the sea did
not permit us to land, since the breakers ran mountain
high along the coast, so that we resolved to perish in
the sea rather than to land, hoping that the wind and
tempest would abate, so that, with the wind astern, we
might go ashore on some sandy beach. As each one thought
by himself what might be done for our preservation, a
sailor said that a quantity of cordage attached to the
stern of our barque, and dragging in the water, might
serve in some measure to steer our vessel. But this was
of no avail; and we saw that, unless God should aid us
by other means, this would not preserve us from
shipwreck. As we were thinking what could be done for
our safety, Champdoré, who had been again handcuffed,
said to some of us that, if Pont Gravé desired it, he
would find means to steer our barque. This we reported
to Pont Gravé, who did not refuse this offer, and the
rest of us still less. He accordingly had his handcuffs
taken off the second time, and at once taking a rope, he
cut it and fastened the rudder with it in such a skilful
manner that it would steer the ship as well as ever. In
this way, he made amends for the mistakes he had made
leading to the loss of the previous barque, and was
discharged from his accusation through our entreaties to
Pont Gravé who, although Somewhat reluctantly, acceded
to it.
The same day we anchored near La Baye Courante, [192]
two leagues from Cape Fourchu, and there our barque was
repaired. On the 23d of July, we proceeded near to Cape
Sable.
On the 24th of the month, at two o'clock in the
afternoon, we perceived a shallop, near Cormorant
Island, coming from Cape Sable. Some thought it was
savages going away from Cape Breton or the Island of
Canseau. Others said it might be shallops sent from
Canseau to get news of us. Finally, as we approached
nearer, we saw that they were Frenchmen, which delighted
us greatly. When it had almost reached us, we recognized
Ralleau, the Secretary of Sieur de Monts, which
redoubled our joy. He informed us that Sieur de Monts
had despatched a vessel of a hundred and twenty tons,
commanded by Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had come with
fifty men to act as Lieutenant-General, and live in the
country; that he had landed at Canseau, whence the
above-mentioned vessel had gone out to sea, in order, if
possible, to find us, while he, meanwhile, was
proceeding along the coast in a shallop, in order to
meet us in case we should have set out, supposing we had
departed from Port Royal, as was in fact the case: in so
doing, they acted very wisely. All this intelligence
caused us to turn back; and we arrived at Port Royal on
the 25th of the month, where we found the
above-mentioned vessel and Sieur de Poutrincourt, and
were greatly delighted to see realized what we had given
up in despair. [193] He told us that his delay had been
caused by an accident which happened to the ship in
leaving the boom at Rochelle, where he had taken his
departure, and that he had been hindered by bad weather
on his voyage. [194]
The next day, Sieur de Poutrincourt proceeded to set
forth his views as to what should be done; and, in
accordance with the opinion of all, he resolved to stay
at Port Royal this year, inasmuch as no discovery had
been made since the departure of Sieur de Monts, and the
period of four months before winter was not long enough
to search out a site and construct another settlement,
especially in a large vessel, unlike a barque which
draws little water, searches everywhere, and finds
places to one's mind for effecting settlements. But he
decided that, during this period, nothing more should be
done than to try to find some place better adapted for
our abode. [195]
Thus deciding, Sieur de Poutrincourt despatched at once
some laborers to work on the land in a spot which he
deemed suitable, up the river, a league and a half from
the settlement of Port Royal, and where we had thought
of making our abode. Here he ordered wheat, rye, hemp,
and several other kinds of seeds to be sown, in order to
ascertain how they would flourish. [196]
On the 22d of August, a small barque was seen
approaching our settlement. It was that of Des Antons,
of St. Malo, who had come from Canseau, where his vessel
was engaged in fishing, to inform us that there were
some vessels about Cape Breton engaged in the fur-trade;
and that, if we would send our ship, we might capture
them on the point of returning to France. It was
determined to do so as soon as some supplies, which were
in the ship, could be unloaded. [197]
This being done. Pont Gravé embarked, together with his
companions, who had wintered with him at Port Royal,
excepting Champdoré and Foulgeré de Vitré. I also stayed
with De Poutrincourt, in order, with God's help, to
complete the map of the coasts and countries which I had
commenced. Every thing being put in order in the
settlement. Sieur de Poutrincourt ordered provisions to
be taken on board for our voyage along the coast of
Florida.
On the 29th of August, we set out from Port Royal, as
did also Pont Gravé and Des Antons, who were bound for
Cape Breton and Canseau, to seize the vessels which were
engaging in the fur-trade, as I have before stated.
After getting out to sea, we were obliged to put back on
account of bad weather. But the large vessel kept on her
course, and we soon lost sight of her.
ENDNOTES:
191. Petit Passage, leading into St. Mary's Bay.
192. _La Baye Courante_, the bay at the mouth of Argyl
or Abuptic River, sometimes called Lobster Bay.--_Vide
Campbell's Yarmouth County_. N.S., p. 13. The anchorage
for the repair of the barque near this bay, two leagues
from Cape Fourchu, was probably near Pinckney Point, or
it may have been under the lee of one of the Tusquet
Islands.
193. Lescarbot, who with De Poutrincourt was in this
vessel, the "Jonas," gives a very elaborate account of
their arrival and reception at Port Royal. It seems
that, at Canseau, Poutrincourt, supposing that the
colony at Port Royal, not receiving expected succors,
had possibly already embarked for France, as was in fact
the case, had despatched a small boat in charge of
Ralleau to reconnoitre the coast, with the hope of
meeting them, if they had already embarked. The "Jonas"
passed them unobserved, perhaps while they were
repairing their barque at Baye Courante. As Ralleau did
not join the "Jonas" till after their arrival at Port
Royal, Poutrincourt did not hear of the departure of the
colony till his arrival. Champlain's dates do not agree
with those of Lescarbot, and the latter is probably
correct. According to Lescarbot, Poutrincourt arrived on
the 27th, and Pont Gravé with Champlain on the 31st of
July. _Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, pp. 544,
547.
194. Lescarbot gives a graphic account of the accident
which happened to their vessel in the harbor of
Rochelle, delaying them more than a month: and the bad
weather and the bad seamanship of Captain Foulques, who
commanded the "Jonas," which kept them at sea more than
two months and a half.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris.
1612, p. 523, _et seq._
195. Before leaving France, Poutrincourt had received
instructions from the patentee, De Monts to seek for a
good harbor and more genial climate for the colony
farther south than Mallebarre, as he was not satisfied
either with St. Croix or Port Royal for a permanent
abode.--_Vide Lescarbot's His. Nou. France_, Paris,
1612, p. 552.
196. By reference to Champlain's drawing of Port Royal,
it will be seen that the place of this agricultural
experiment was on the southern side of Annapolis River,
near the mouth of Alien River, and on the identical soil
where the village of Annapolis now stands.
197. It appears that this fur-trader was one Boyer, of
Rouen, who had been delivered from prison at Rochelle by
Poutrincourt's lenity, where he had been incarcerated
probably for the same offence. They did not succeed in
capturing him at Canseau.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, par
Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 553.
Sources/Notes:
Samuel de Champlain.
1567-1635. "Voyages of Samuel de Champlain"
Edited by Edmund F. Slafter, (Boston: Prince Society
1878)
Samuel de Champlain image:
Warwick Stevens Carpenter. The Summer Paradise in
History. Albany: General Passenger Department, The
Delaware and Hudson Company. 1914. Courtesy of John and
Barbara Gallagher.
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