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Chapter 28
Original translation from
the French by Charles Pomeroy Otis, Ph.D. Republished by
the Prince Society, Boston: 1878.
MEMOIR OF
SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN
Volume II
1604-1610
CHAPTER III.
DESCRIPTION OF PORT ROYAL AND THE PECULIARITIES OF THE
SAME. ISLE HAUTE. PORT OF MINES. BAYE FRANÇOISE.-THE
RIVER ST. JOHN, AND WHAT WE OBSERVED BETWEEN THE PORT OF
MINES AND THE SAME. THE ISLAND CALLED BY THE SAVAGES
MANTHANE. THE RIVER OF THE ETECHEMINS, AND SEVERAL FINE
ISLANDS THERE. ST. CROIX ISLAND, AND OTHER NOTEWORTHY
OBJECTS ON THIS COAST.
Some days after, Sieur de
Monts decided to go and examine the coasts of Baye
Françoise. For this purpose, he set out from the vessel
on the 16th of May,[53] and we went through the strait
of Long Island.[54] Not having found in St. Mary's Bay
any place in which to fortify ourselves except at the
cost of much time, we accordingly resolved to see
whether there might not be a more favorable one in the
other bay. Heading north-east six leagues, there is a
cove where vessels can anchor in four, five, six, and
seven fathoms of water. The bottom is sandy. This place
is only a kind of roadstead.[55] Continuing two leagues
farther on in the same direction, we entered one of the
finest harbors I had seen along all these coasts, in
which two thousand vessels might lie in security. The
entrance is eight hundred paces broad; then you enter a
harbor two leagues long and one broad, which I have
named Port Royal.[56] Three rivers empty into it, one of
which is very large, extending eastward, and called
Rivière de l'Équille,[57] from a little fish of the size
of an _esplan?_, which is caught there in large numbers,
as is also the herring, and several other kinds of fish
found in abundance in their season. This river is nearly
a quarter of a league broad at its entrance, where there
is an island [58] perhaps half a league in circuit, and
covered with wood like all the rest of the country, as
pines, firs, spruces, birches, aspens, and some oaks,
although the latter are found in small numbers in
comparison with the other kinds. There are two entrances
to the above river, one on the north, the other on the
south side of the island. That on the north is the
better, and vessels can there anchor under shelter of
the island in five, six, seven, eight, and nine fathoms.
But it is necessary to be on one's guard against some
shallows near the island on the one side, and the main
land on the other, very dangerous, if one does not know
the channel. * * * * *
CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP.
PORT AU MOUTON.
_The figures indicate fathoms of water_.
_A_. Place where vessels lie.
_B_. Place where we made our camp.
_C_. A pond.
_D_. An island at the entrance to the harbor, covered
with wood.
_E_. A river very shallow.
_F_. A pond.
_G_. A very large brook coming from the pond F.
_H_. Six little islands in the harbor.
_L_. Country, containing only copse and heath of very
small size.
_M_. Sea-shore.
NOTE.--The wanting letter L should probably be placed
where the trees are represented as very small, between
the letters B and the island F.
* * * * *
We ascended the river some fourteen or fifteen leagues,
where the tide rises, and it is not navigable much
farther. It has there a breadth of sixty paces, and
about a fathom and a half of water. The country
bordering the river is filled with numerous oaks, ashes,
and other trees. Between the mouth of the river and the
point to which we ascended there are many meadows, which
are flooded at the spring tides, many little streams
traversing them from one side to the other, through
which shallops and boats can go at full tide. This place
was the most favorable and agreeable for a settlement
that we had seen. There is another island [59] within
the port, distant nearly two leagues from the former. At
this point is another little stream, extending a
considerable distance inland, which we named Rivière St.
Antoine. [60] Its mouth is distant from the end of the
Bay of St. Mary some four leagues through the woods. The
remaining river is only a small stream filled with
rocks, which cannot be ascended at all on account of the
small amount of water, and which has been named Rocky
Brook. [61] This place is in latitude [62] 45°; and 17°
8' of the deflection of the magnetic needle.
* * * * *
CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE MAP
PORT ROYAL
_The figures indicate fathoms of water_.
_A_. Our habitation. [Note: On the present site of Lower
Granville.]
_B_. Garden of Sieur de Champlain.
_C_. Road through the woods that Sieur de Poutrincourt
had made.
_D_. Island at the mouth of Équille River.
_E_. Entrance to Port Royal,
_F_. Shoals, dry at low tide.
_G_. River St. Antoine. [Note: The stream west of river
St. Antoine is the Jogging River.]
_H_. Place under cultivation for sowing wheat. [Note:
The site of the present town of Annapolis.]
_I_. Mill that Sieur de Poutrincourt had made.
_L_. Meadows overflowed at highest tides.
_M_. Équille River.
_N_. Seacoast of Port Royal.
_O_. Ranges of mountains.
_P_. Island near the river St. Antoine.
_Q_. Rocky Brook. [Footnote: Now called Deep Brook.]
_R_. Another brook. [Note: Morris River.]
_S_. Mill River. [Note: Allen River.]
_T_. Small lake.
_V_. Place where the savages catch herring in the
season.
_X_. Trout brook. [Note: Trout Brook is now called
Shäfer's Brook, and the first on the west is Thorne's,
and the second Scofield's Brook.]
_Y_. A lane that Sieur de Champlain had made.
* * * * *
After having explored this harbor, we set out to advance
farther on in Baye Françoise, and see whether we could
not find the copper mine, [63] which had been discovered
the year before. Heading north-east, and sailing eight
or ten leagues along the coast of Port Royal,[64] we
crossed a part of the bay Some five or six leagues in
extent, when we arrived at a place which we called the
Cape of Two Bays;[65] and we passed by an island a
league distant therefrom, a league also in circuit,
rising up forty or forty-five fathoms. [66] It is wholly
surrounded by great rocks, except in one place which is
sloping, at the foot of which slope there is a pond of
salt water, coming from under a pebbly point, having the
form of a spur. The surface of the island is flat,
covered with trees, and containing a fine spring of
water. In this place is a copper mine. Thence we
proceeded to a harbor a league and a half distant, where
we supposed the copper mine was, which a certain Prevert
of St. Malo had discovered by aid of the savages of the
country. This port is in latitude 45° 40', and is dry at
low tide. [67] In order to enter it, it is necessary to
place beacons, and mark out a sand-bank at the entrance,
which borders a channel that extends along the main
land. Then you enter a bay nearly a league in length,
and half a league in breadth. In some places, the bottom
is oozy and sandy, where vessels may get aground. The
sea falls and rises there to the extent of four or five
fathoms. We landed to see whether we could find the
mines which Prevert had reported to us. Having gone
about a quarter of a league along certain mountains, we
found none, nor did we recognize any resemblance to the
description of the harbor he had given us. Accordingly,
he had not himself been there, but probably two or three
of his men had been there, guided by some savages,
partly by land and partly by little streams, while he
awaited them in his shallop at the mouth of a little
river in the Bay of St. Lawrence.[68] These men, upon
their return, brought him several small pieces of
copper, which he showed us when he returned from his
voyage. Nevertheless, we found in this harbor two mines
of what seemed to be copper according to the report of
our miner, who considered it very good, although it was
not native copper.
* * * * *
CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE MAP.
PORT DES MINES.
_The figures indicate fathoms of water_.
_A_. A place where vessels are liable to run aground.
_B_. A Small river.
_C_. A tongue of land composed of Sand.
_D_. A point composed of large pebbles, which is like a
mole.
_E_. Location of a copper mine, which is covered by the
tide twice a day.
_F_. An island to the rear of the Cape of Mines. [Note:
Now called Spencer's Island. Champlain probably obtained
his knowledge of this island at a subsequent visit.
There is a creek extending from near Spencer's Island
between the rocky elevations to Advocate's Harbor, or
nearly so, which Champlain does not appear to have seen,
or at least he does not represent it on his map. This
point, thus made an island by the creek, has an
elevation of five hundred feet, at the base of which was
the copper mine which they discovered.--_Vide_ note 67.]
_G_. Roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for
the tide.
_H_. Isle Haute, which is a league and a half from Port
of Mines.
_I_. Channel.
_L_. Little River.
_M_. Range of mountains along the coast of the Cape of
Mines.
* * * * *
The head [69] of the Baye Françoise, which we crossed,
is fifteen leagues inland. All the land which we have
seen in coasting along from the little passage of Long
Island is rocky, and there is no place except Port Royal
where vessels can lie in Safety. The land is covered
with pines and birches, and, in my opinion, is not very
good.
On the 20th of May,[70] we set out from the Port of
Mines to seek a place adapted for a permanent stay, in
order to lose no time, purposing afterwards to return,
and see if we could discover the mine of pure copper
which Prevert's men had found by aid of the savages. We
sailed west two leagues as far as the cape of the two
bays, then north five or six leagues; and we crossed the
other bay,[71] where we thought the copper mine was, of
which we have already spoken: inasmuch as there are
there two rivers, [72] the one coming from the direction
of Cape Breton, and the other from Gaspé or Tregatté,
near the great river St. Lawrence. Sailing west some six
leagues, we arrived at a little river,[73] at the mouth
of which is rather a low cape, extending out into the
sea; and a short distance inland there is a
mountain,[74] having the shape of a Cardinal's hat. In
this place we found an iron mine. There is anchorage
here only for shallops. Four leagues west south-west is
a rocky point [75] extending out a short distance into
the water, where there are strong tides which are very
dangerous. Near the point we saw a cove about half a
league in extent, in which we found another iron mine,
also very good. Four leagues farther on is a fine bay
running up into the main land;[76] at the extremity of
which there are three islands and a rock; two of which
are a league from the cape towards the west, and the
other is at the mouth of the largest and deepest river
we had yet seen, which we named the river St. John,
because it was on this saint's day that we arrived
there.[77] By the savages it is called Ouygoudy. This
river is dangerous, if one does not observe carefully
certain points and rocks on the two sides. It is narrow
at its entrance, and then becomes broader. A certain
point being passed, it becomes narrower again, and forms
a kind of fall between two large cliffs, where the water
runs so rapidly that a piece of wood thrown in is drawn
under and not seen again. But by waiting till high tide
you can pass this fall very easily. [78] Then it expands
again to the extent of about a league in some places,
where there are three islands. We did not explore it
farther up.[79] But Ralleau, secretary of Sieur de Monts,
went there some time after to see a savage named
Secondon, chief of this river, who reported that it was
beautiful, large, and extensive, with many meadows and
fine trees, as oaks, beeches, walnut-trees, and also
wild grapevines. The inhabitants of the country go by
this river to Tadoussac, on the great river St.
Lawrence, making but a short portage on the journey.
From the river St. John to Tadoussac is sixty-five
leagues.[80] At its mouth, which is in latitude 45° 40',
there is an iron mine.[81]
* * * * *
CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP.
RIVIÈRE ST. JEHAN.
_The figures indicate fathoms of water_.
_A_. Three islands above the falls. [Note: The islands
are not close together as here represented. One is very
near the main land on one shore, and two on the other.]
_B_. Mountains rising up from the main land, two leagues
south of the river.
_C_. The fall in the river.
_D_. Shoals where vessels, when the tide is out, are
liable to run aground.
_E_. Cabin where the savages fortify themselves.
_F_. A pebbly point where there is a cross.
_G_. An island at the entrance of the river. [Note:
Partridge Island.]
_H_. A Small brook coming from a little pond. [Note:
Mill Pond.]
_I_. Arm of the sea dry at low tide. [Note: Marsh Creek,
very shallow but not entirely dry at low tide.]
_L_. Two little rocky islets. [Note: These islets are
not now represented on the charts, and are probably
rocks near the shore from which the soil may have been
washed away since 1604.]
_M_. A small pond.
_N_. Two brooks.
_O_. Very dangerous shoals along the coast, which are
dry at low tide.
_P_. Way by which the savages carry their canoes in
passing the falls.
_Q_. Place for anchoring where the river runs with full
current.
* * * * *
From the river St. John we went to four islands, on one
of which we landed, and found great numbers of birds
called magpies,[82] of which we captured many small
ones, which are as good as pigeons. Sieur de
Poutrincourt came near getting lost here, but he came
back to our barque at last, when we had already gone to
search for him about the island, which is three leagues
distant from the main land. Farther west are other
islands; among them one six leagues in length, called by
the savages Manthane,[83] south of which there are among
the islands several good harbors for vessels. From the
Magpie Islands we proceeded to a river on the main land
called the river of the Etechemins,[84] a tribe of
savages so called in their country. We passed by so many
islands that we could not ascertain their number, which
were very fine. Some were two leagues in extent, others
three, others more or less. All of these islands are in
a bay,[85] having, in my estimation, a circuit of more
than fifteen leagues. There are many good places capable
of containing any number of vessels, and abounding in
fish in the season, such as codfish, salmon, bass,
herring, halibut, and other kinds in great numbers.
Sailing west-north-west three leagues through the
islands, we entered a river almost half a league in
breadth at its mouth, sailing up which a league or two
we found two islands: one very small near the western
bank; and the other in the middle, having a
circumference of perhaps eight or nine hundred paces,
with rocky sides three or four fathoms high all around,
except in one small place, where there is a sandy point
and clayey earth adapted for making brick and other
useful articles. There is another place affording a
shelter for vessels from eighty to a hundred tons, but
it is dry at low tide. The island is covered with firs,
birches, maples, and oaks. It is by nature very well
situated, except in one place, where for about forty
paces it is lower than elsewhere: this, however, is
easily fortified, the banks of the main land being
distant on both sides some nine hundred to a thousand
paces. Vessels could pass up the river only at the mercy
of the cannon on this island, and we deemed the location
the most advantageous, not only on account of its
situation and good foil, but also on account of the
intercourse which we proposed with the savages of these
coasts and of the interior, as we should be in the midst
of them. We hoped to pacify them in the course of time,
and put an end to the wars which they carry on with one
another, so as to derive service from them in future,
and convert them to the Christian faith. This place was
named by Sieur de Monts the Island of St. Croix. [86]
Farther on, there is a great bay, in which are two
islands, one high and the other flat; also three rivers,
two of moderate size, one extending towards the east,
the other towards the north, and the third of large
size, towards the west. The latter is that of the
Etechemins, of which we spoke before. Two leagues up
this there is a waterfall, around which the savages
carry their canoes some five hundred paces by land, and
then re-enter the river. Passing afterwards from the
river a short distance overland, one reaches the rivers
Norumbegue and St. John. But the falls are impassable
for vessels, as there are only rocks and but four or
five feet of water.[87] In May and June, so great a
number of herring and bass are caught there that vessels
could be loaded with them. The soil is of the finest
sort, and there are fifteen or twenty acres of cleared
land, where Sieur de Monts had some wheat sown, which
flourished finely. The savages come here sometimes five
or six weeks during the fishing Season. All the rest of
the country consists of very dense forests. If the land
were cleared up, grain would flourish excellently. This
place is in latitude 45° 20',[88] and 17° 32' of the
deflection of the magnetic needle.
* * * * *
CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP.
ISLE DE SAINTE CROIX.
_The figures indicate fathoms of water_.
_A_. A plan of our habitation.
_B_. Gardens.
_C_. Little islet serving as a platform for cannon.
[Note: This refers to the southern end of the island,
which was probably separated at high tide, where a
cannon may be seen in position.]
_D_. Platform where cannon were placed.
_E_. The Cemetery.
_F_. The Chapel.
_G_. Rocky shoals about the Island Sainte Croix.
_H_. A little islet. [Note: Little De Monts's Island,
Sometimes called Little Dochet's Island.]
_I_. Place where Sieur de Monts had a water-mill
commenced.
_L_. Place where we made our coal.
_M_. Gardens on the western shore.
_N_. Other gardens on the eastern shore.
_O_. Very large and high mountain on the main land.
[Note: This "mountain" is now called Chamcook Hill. Its
height is 627 feet. At the northern end of the island on
the right there is an extensive sandy shoal, dry at low
tide, of a triangular shape as formerly, and has
apparently changed very little since the days of
Champlain.]
_P_. River of the Etechemins flowing about the Island of
St. Croix.
* * * * *
ENDNOTES:
53. For May read June. It could not have been in May,
since Champlain Set out from Port Mouton on his
exploring expedition on the 19th of May, which must have
been a month previous to this.
54. What is now called the Petit Passage, the narrow
strait between Long Island and Digby Neck.
55. Gulliver's Hole, about two leagues south-west of
Digby Strait.
56. Champlain here names the whole harbor or basin Port
Royal, and not the place of habitation afterward so
called. The first settlement was on the north side of
the bay in the present hamlet of Lower Granville, not as
often alleged at Annapolis.--_Vide_ Champlain's
engraving or map of Port Royal.
57. "Équille." A name, on the coasts between Caen and
Havre, of the fish called lançon at Granville and St.
Malo, a kind of malacopterygious fish living on sandy
shores and hiding in the sand at low tide.-- _Littré_. A
species of sand eel. This stream is now known as the
Annapolis River. Lescarbot calls it Rivière du Dauphin.
58. This island is situated at the point where the
Annapolis River flows into the bay, or about nine miles
from Digby, straight. Champlain on his map gives it no
name, but Lescarbot calls it Biencourville. It is now
called Goat Island.
59. Lescarbot calls it Claudiane. It is now known as
Bear Island. It was Sometimes called Ile d'Hébert, and
likewise Imbert Island. Laverdière suggests that the
present name is derived from the French pronunciation of
the last syllable of Imbert.
60. At present known as Bear River; Lescarbot has it
Hebert, and Charlevoix, Imbert.
61. On modern maps called Moose River, and sometimes
Deep Brook. It is a few miles east of Bear River.
62. The latitude is here overstated: it should be 44°
39' 30".
63. On the preceding year, M. Prevert of St. Malo had
made a glowing report ostensively based on his own
observations and information which he had obtained from
the Indians, in regard to certain mines alleged to exist
on the coast directly South of Northumberland Strait,
and about the head of the Bay of Fundy. It was this
report of Prevert that induced the present search.
64. Along the Bay of Fundy nearly parallel to the basin
of Port Royal would better express the author's meaning.
65. Cape Chignecto, the point where the Bay of Fundy is
bifurcated; the northern arm forming Chignecto Bay, and
the southern, the Bay of Mines or Minas Basin.
66. Isle Haute, or high island.--_Vide Charlevoix's
Map_. On Some maps this name has been strangely
perverted into Isle Holt, Isle Har, &c. Its height is
320 feet.
67. This was Advocate's Harbor. Its distance from Cape
Chignecto is greater than that stated in the text.
Further on, Champlain calls it two leagues, which is
nearly correct. Its latitude is about 45° 20'. By
comparing the Admiralty charts and Champlain's map of
this harbor, it will be seen that important changes have
taken place since 1604. The tongue of land extending in
a south-easterly direction, covered with trees and
shrubbery, which Champlain calls a sand-bank, has
entirely disappeared. The ordinary tides rise here from
thirty-three to thirty-nine feet, and on a sandy shore
could hardly fail to produce important changes.
68. According to the Abbé Laverdière, the lower part of
the Gulf was sometimes called the Bay of St. Lawrence.
69. They had just crossed the Bay of Mines. From the
place where they crossed it to its head it is not far
from fifteen leagues, and it is about the same distance
to Port Royal, from which he may here estimate the
distance inland.
70. Read June.--_Vide antea_, note 53.
71. Chignecto Bay. Charlevoix has Chignitou _ou Beau
Bassin_. On De Laet's Map of 1633, on Jacob von Meur's
of 1673, and Homenn's of 1729, we have B. de Gennes. The
Cape of Two Bays was Cape Chignecto.
72. The rivers are the Cumberland Basin with its
tributaries coming from the east, and the Petitcoudiac
(_petit_ and _coude_, little elbow, from the angle
formed by the river at Moncton, called the Bend), which
flows into Shepody Bay coming from the north or the
direction of Gaspé. Champlain mentions all these
particulars, probably as answering to the description
given to them by M. Prevert of the place where copper
mines could be found.
73. Quaco River, at the mouth of which the water is
shallow: the low cape extending out into the sea is that
on which Quaco Light now stands, which reaches out
quarter of a mile, and is comparatively low. The shore
from Goose River, near where they made the coast, is
very high, measuring at different points 783, 735, 650,
400, 300, 500, and 380 feet, while the "low cape" is
only 250 feet, and near it on the west is an elevation
of 400 feet. It would be properly represented as "rather
a low cape" in contradistinction to the neighboring
coast. Iron and manganese are found here, and the latter
has been mined to some extent, but is now discontinued,
as the expense is too great for the present times.
74. This mountain is an elevation, eight or ten miles
inland from Quaco, which may be seen by vessels coasting
along from St. Martin's Head to St. John: it is
indicated on the charts as Mt. Theobald, and bears a
striking resemblance, as Champlain suggests, to the
_chapeau de Cardinal_.
75. McCoy's Head, four leagues west of Quaco: the "cove"
may be that on the east into which Gardner's Creek
flows, or that on the west at the mouth of Emmerson's
Creek.
76. The Bay of St. John, which is four leagues
south-west of McCoy's Head. The islands mentioned are
Partridge Island at the mouth of the harbor, and two
smaller ones farther west, one Meogenes, and the other
Shag rock or some unimportant islet in its vicinity. The
rock mentioned by Champlain is that on which Spit Beacon
Light now stands.
77. The festival of St. John the Baptist occurs on the
24th of June; and, arriving on that day, they gave the
name of St. John to the river, which has been
appropriately given also to the city at its mouth, now
the metropolis of the province of New Brunswick.
78. Champlain was under a missapprehension about passing
the fall at the mouth of the St. John at high tide. It
can in fact only be passed at about half tide. The
waters of the river at low tide are about twelve feet
higher than the waters of the sea. At high tide, the
waters of the sea are about five feet higher than the
waters of the river. Consequently, at low tide there is
a fall outward, and at high tide there is a fall inward,
at neither of which times can the fall be passed. The
only time for passing the fall is when the waters of the
sea are on a level with the waters of the river. This
occurs twice every tide, at the level point at the flood
and likewise at the ebb. The period for passing lasts
about fifteen or twenty minutes, and of course occurs
four times a day. Vessels assemble in considerable
numbers above and below to embrace the opportunity of
passing at the favoring moment. There are periods,
however, when the river is swollen by rains and melting
snow, at which the tides do not rise as high as the
river, and consequently there is a constant fall
outward, and vessels cannot pass until the high water
subsides.
79. They ascended the river only a short distance into
the large bay just above the falls, near which are the
three islands mentioned in the text.
80. The distance from the mouth of the river St. John to
Tadoussac in a direct line is about sixty-five leagues.
But by the winding course of the St. John it would be
very much greater.
81. Champlain's latitude is inexact. St. John's Harbor
is 45° 16'.
82. _Margos_, magpies. The four islands which Champlain
named the Magpies are now called the Wolves, and are
near the mouth of Passamaquoddy Bay. Charlevoix has _Oiseaux_,
the Birds.
83. Manan. Known as the Grand Manan in contradistinction
to the Petit Manan, a small island still further west.
It is about fourteen or fifteen miles long, and about
six in its greatest width. On the south and eastern side
are Long Island, Great Duck, Ross, Cheyne, and White
Head Islands, among which good harborage may be found.
The name, as appears in the text, is of Indian origin.
It is Sometimes Spelled Menarse, but that in the text
prevails.
84. The St. Croix River, sometimes called the Scoudic.
85. Passsmaquoddy Bay. On Gastaldo's map of 1550 called
Angoulesme. On Rouge's "Atlas Ameriquain," 1778, it is
written Passamacadie.
86. The Holy Cross, _Saincte Croix_, This name was
suggested by the circumstance that, a few miles above
the island, two streams flow into the main channel of
the river at the same place, one from the east and the
other from the west, while a bay makes up between them,
presenting the appearance of a cross.
"Et d'autant qu'à deux lieues au dessus il y a des
ruisseaux qui viennent comme en croix de décharger dans
ce large bras de mer, cette île de la retraite des
François fut appelée SAINCTE CROIX."--_His. Nouvelle
France_ par Lescarbot, Paris. 1612, Qvat Liv. pp. 461,
462.
It is now called De Monts's Island. It has been called
Dochet's Island and Neutral Island, but there is great
appropriateness in calling it after its first occupant
and proprietor, and in honor of him it has been so named
with suitable ceremonies.--_Vide Godfrey's Centennial
Discourse_, Bangor, 1870, p. 20. The United States
maintain a light upon the island, which is seventy-one
feet above the level of the sea, and is visible twelve
nautical miles. The island itself is moderately high,
and in the widest part is one hundred and eighty paces
or about five hundred and forty feet. The area is
probably not more than six or seven acres, although it
has been estimated at twice that. It may have been
diminished in some slight degree since the time of
Champlain by the action of the waves, but probably very
little. On the southern extremity of the island where De
Monts placed his cannon, about twenty-five years ago a
workman in excavating threw out five small cannon-balls,
one of which was obtained by Peter E. Vose, Esq., of
Dennysville, Me., who then resided near the island, and
was conversant with all the circumstances of the
discovery. They were about a foot and a half below the
surface, and the workman was excavating for another
purpose, and knew nothing of the history of the island.
At our solicitation, the ball belonging to Mr. Vose has
recently been presented to the New England Historic
Genealogical Society, of which he is a member. It is
iron, perfectly round, two and a quarter inches in
diameter, and weighs 22 oz. avoirdupois. There can be no
reasonable doubt that these balls are relics of the
little French colony of 1604, and probably the only
memorial of the kind now in existence.
87. The description in the text of the environs of the
Island of St. Croix is entirely accurate. Some distance
above, and in view from the island, is the fork, or
Divide, as it is called. Here is a meeting of the waters
of Warwig Creek from the east, Oak Bay from the north,
and the river of the Etechemins, now called the St.
Croix, from the west. These are the three rivers
mentioned by Champlain, Oak Bay being considered as one
of them, in which may be seen the two islands mentioned
in the text, one high and the other low. A little above
Calais is the waterfall, around which the Indians
carried their bark canoes, when on their journey up the
river through the Scoudic lakes, from which by land they
reached the river St. John on the east, or, on the west,
passing through the Mettawamkeag, they reached the
Norumbegue, or Penobscot River.
88. The latitude of the Island of St. Croix is 45° 7'
43".
Sources/Notes:
Samuel de Champlain.
1567-1635. "Voyages of Samuel de Champlain"
Edited by Edmund F. Slafter, (Boston: Prince Society
1878)
Samuel de Champlain image:
Warwick Stevens Carpenter. The Summer Paradise in
History. Albany: General Passenger Department, The
Delaware and Hudson Company. 1914. Courtesy of John and
Barbara Gallagher.
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